'Lake of 1,000 islands' a weekend getaway

Just about half a century ago, the vast area occupied today by Qiandao Lake was a mountainous region where people had been dwelling for more than 1,000 years.

The building of a dam and hydroelectric power station on the Xin’an River involved the relocation of tens of thousands of people. In just one night in 1959, the mountains were flooded, with only their tips peaking above the water line.

Qiandao Lake, located in neighboring Zhejiang Province, literally means “lake of 1,000 islands.”

The Xin’an River Reservoir created by the dam became Qiandao Lake and provided some breathtaking scenery. There are 1,078 large islands and countless smaller ones dotting the lake, which is flanked by heavily forested hills.

The lake, in Chun’an County in the provincial capital of Hangzhou, is just a two-hour ride by high-speed train from Shanghai. It’s become a popular getaway weekend spot for Shanghai residents.

It really takes two days and one night to do the area justice. There are boat trips around the lake and lakeside hotel resorts where visitors can appreciate the scenery from their balconies.

Meifeng Island is the most recommended spot. From Meifeng Peak, you can view the entire lake and its dotting of small islands. There are two observatories on the island; the westernmost one affords the best views. Weather permitting, it’s said, one can see more than 300 islands from the observatory there.

Cable cars are available to the top of the peak, but many visitors prefer the 20-minute hike up, amid fresh air, verdant trees and sometimes blooming flowers.

Outdoor activity lovers will enjoy the Forest Oxygen Bar, a vast forest on the southeastern side of the lake. There, they can indulge in grass skiing, rock climbing and other healthy outdoor activities.

After the sightseeing, it’s time to hit the local culinary scene. At the top of the list of delicacies is fish-head soup. All the restaurants in the scenic area have ads for the soup on their signboards.

The name may put off some foreigners who don’t know that the heads of fish make the best broth and have some of the most delectable meat. If they can get past the image of a fish head with eyes wide open staring back at them from a milky broth, they will be in for a real treat.

The taste of soup is divine. The rich taste of fish meat melts entirely into the soup. Other ingredients in the soup, such as fish balls, ham, bamboo shoots, tofu and cilantros, are the icing on the cake.

The locally labeled “organic” fish used in the dish refers to farmed spotted silver carp. In China, this breed of fish is often used to make soups because of its especially large head, which can weigh up to 4 kilograms. No wonder the dish here is often nicknamed the “fish-head king soup.”

Carp farming in the lake can be traced back to the 1980s, when tens of thousands of the fish were caught in huge nets. Sometimes on weekends, fishing activities are held at the lake and open to visitors. Watching thousands of fish jumping on the lake is maybe a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many.

Sturgeon raised in pens in the lake are used to produce caviar.

Visitors can try their hand at fishing with a net, but it’s no easy work. Many professional fishermen here have honed their skills over decades.

Among them is Ye Zhiqing, whose nickname is “fishing master.” A fisherman for more than 30 years, Ye has watched the rise of the fishing industry and tourism in the scenic area.

If you go
High-speed trains run from Shanghai to Qiandao Lake Station on the Hangzhou-Huangshan Railway. From the railway station, shuttle buses operate to the main scenic area, which is about 20 kilometers away. A ferry port launches most transport around the lake.